Italy > Campania > Antica Hirpinia

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Campania: The region

Campania has been a wine-producing region since grapes were first introduced by the Greeks in the 8th-7th centuries BC. In fact an ancient Greek name for southern Italy was Oenotria- “The Land of Wine,” while the Romans called southern Italy Magna Gracia (“Greater Greece”). The regional capital, Naples, (Neapolis, “Newtown”) is a Greek settlement absorbed by Rome during the Second Samnite War (c.325 BC).

Campania achieved further fame in the Roman era, providing wines for the luxury villas of nearby Pompeii, Stabiae and Herculaneum, with the region’s famous wines being mentioned by Pliny, Virgil, Marcian and Cicero. Wines from the region were said to be served at the Trimalchio’s famous banquets in Petronius’ Satyricon. The region’s wines grew in fame during the Christian era (which started early there; both Saints Peter and Paul visited Naples), and the local wine Lacryma Christi is said to be made from Christ’s tears over the fall of Lucifer from Heaven. Throughout the middle ages and into the modern era, Campania’s wines have been regarded as some of the world’s finest, and have been sought after by kings, emperors and Popes.

The region’s reds are dominated by the indigenous Aglianico grape (primarily Irpinia Aglianico DOCG and Taurasi DOCG), while the whites are made from Greco (Greco di Tufo DOCG) and Fiano (Fiano di Avellino DOCG). Smaller amounts of Falanghina and Coda di Volpe are also grown.

The landscape is largely volcanic (Vesuvius is only a few miles distant), with clay and limestone admixtures, producing rich, mineral-driven flavors.

Taurasi DOCG: 100% Aglianico, from 100+ year old ungrafted vines grown on sandy clay soils at about 1150 ft elevation. Hand harvested in small batches, then fermented in stainless steel before ageing in oak (40% sees 12 months in barrique, 60% sees 18 months in 80-Hl tuns), then 6 months elevage in bottle before release. Deeply scented with dried cherry and dark spices, the wine has surprisingly gentle tannins and drinks well relatively young. Pair with beef stew, grilled lamb or rich tomato sauces. The symbol on this label is the Triple Square, a Templar symbol of obscure origin that may be related to the concept of the Holy Center, where God, Man and the Universe meet.

The Antica Hirpinia Winery

For centuries, land ownership in the region has been highly fragmented with small peasant holdings dominating the vineyard landscape. In 1959, the first cooperative in Irpinia was founded, dedicated to bringing modern winemaking technology to the ancient vineyard region. In 2016, the Antica Hirpinia coop was taken private by a group of five vineyard owners, who hired Riccardo Cotarella as the consulting winemaker. Valeria Cesari, MS, came onboard in 2018 as estate manager. She’s involved in every step of the process, from the pruning choices to the final blend and the type of wood used for the wine. Winemaker Ciriaco Varrasso, who has been working at the winery since 2000, carries her vision. The resulting wines are clear expressions of the terroir, with pure aromas and focused, brilliant elegance. These are truly some of the finest wines in the region.

Among many claims to fame, the winery was bottled the very first DOCG-designated Taurasi, in 1992. The very first bottle, band n° AAA 000 0001, is still kept in the winery’s cellars. The second bottle was given to Pope John Paul II, and the third one to the President of the Italian Republic, Oscar Luigi Scalfaro.

Antica Hirpinia owns 31 hectares of vineyards, all located 950 to 1300 ft above sea level: 9ha of Fiano, a selection massale vineyard derived from a unique, 200 year old plant, 9ha of Greco, 5ha of Falanghina, 3ha of Coda di Volpe, and 5ha of Aglianico. Antica Hirpinia rents another 15ha, with 2-3ha of each variety. The overall production is 300,000 bottles per year.

The Wines

Fiano di Avellino DOCG: 100% Fiano, grown on volcanic soil, at 1640 ft elevation. The 9ha of vineyard are coming from a 200 year old mother, still healthy and producing. The grapes are harvested the last week of October. Fermented and aged for 6 months in cement tanks, 4 months on fine lees. No malolactic fermentation. The wine spends an extra 3 months in bottle before release. Intense notes of aromatic herbs followed by pink grapefruit. Long, elegant finish. 13% alcohol. The symbol on the label is the Sacred Center, found on carved stones left by the Knights Templar at the monastery of Abbazia del Goleto. It symbolizes the Origin from which everything finds its beginning and its end: the rays, starting from the center, move toward the infinite. Perfect with tuna, salmon or shellfish.

Greco di Tufo DOCG: 100% Greco grown on clay/volcanic soil. Fermentation and 6 months aging in cement tanks, including 4 months on the fine lees. The wine rests 3 months in bottle before release. Floral nose with stone fruit. On the palate, the high acidity is mellowed by the aging on the lees, which lends richness to the wine. Hint of salinity for a refreshing finish.
The symbol drawn on the label is the Apocalypse Flower, found on carved stones left by the Knights Templar at the monastery of Abbazia del Goleto. Excellent paired with richer dishes, from chicken to pork and prawns.