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umbria

Umbria is in the very center of peninsular Italy, and is the only landlocked regione on the peninsula. Situated along the Appennines, it’s a region of dramatic mountains, valleys, and historic towns tucked away from much of the sweep of Italian history. Its highest point is Monte Vettore on the border with Marche at 8126ft, its lowest is at 315ft in the gently rolling plains of the Tiber valley.

Home to Perugia, Assisi (hometown of St. Francis, namesake of the late Pope), Orvieto and Spoleto.

Umbria is the historical homeland of the Umbri, a rural hillfolk who were absorbed by the expanding Romans in the third century BC, as Rome defeated the Samnites and Etruscans, then flung the Via Flaminia over the Apennines from Rome to Rimini on the Adriatic coast, establishing full control over the Umbrans and Umbria.

Perugia. Photo credit

Perugia, unfortunately, sided with Marc Antony during the Roman Civil War (40BC) and was flattened by Octavian’s forces. The region was part of the core territory of the Roman Empire until its fall in the 5th century AD, then became a contested borderland between the Ostrogoths and Byzantines, then was absorbed by the Lombard Kingdom of northern Italy. When Charlemagne conquered the Lombards, he granted large parts of Umbria to the Pope, and the area became part of the Papal States until the Napoleonic reorganization of Italy in the early 1800’s. In the late 19th century, Umbria was absorbed into the consolidating Italian state during the Risorgimento.

Marmore Falls on the Neri River. Photo credit

“The natural pigment “umber,” a reddish brown made from a mix of iron oxide and managnese oxide, was originally extracted here and named for Terra d’Ombra, the soils of Umbria.”
— Trumbull, Stevenson et al - The Shorter OED on Historical Principles

Label artwork by Andrzej Kot, by permission of the artist and the Museo del Vino dell’Umbria

Torre di Giano “Projetto 62:” Named for the creation of the Torgiano DOC in 1962, this blend of Grechetto and Trebbiano is bright and fresh with medium body and moderate acidity. Grapes gwown in water-retaining clay-rich soils, this wine is vinified in concrete using only free-run juice. Herbal hints and melony fruit notes.

Rubesco “Projetto 62:” Technically a Torgiano Rosso, Rubesco is Lungarotti’s name for their signature style of Sangiovese. Also named for the origin of the Torgiano DOC in 1962; 100% Sangiovese grown on high hillside slopes in a loose calcareous soil. Vinified in stainless with a few months in oak to round the wine out. Bright cherry notes, good acidity and a very fine tannins. A bit more serious than the Il Pometo Sangiovese, with more grip.

lungarotti

The Lungarotti family has been cultivating vines in Umbria along the Middle Tiber since the 1700’s. The modern winery bearing the family name was founded in 1949 by Giorgio Lungarotti, a towering figure in the Umbrian wine world, pretty much single-handedly responsible for gaining recognition of Torgiano as a DOC (in 1968, the 6th DOC to be created) and Torgiano Riserva DOCG (in 1990, the 10th DOCG established).

Giorgio Lungarotti (1911 - 1999)

He created the family’s flagship wine, both a brand and style, Rubesco, a blend of Sangiovese and Colorino named from the latin verb rubescere- to blush- a reference to the joy the wine brings to those who drink it.

The Lungarotti family founded the Museum of Wine in 1974, spearheaded the creation of the DOC Montefalco in 1979, the Lungarotti Foundation (dedicated to the preservation expansion and dissemination of knowledge of wine and winemaking) in 1987, and the Museum of the Olive and Olive Oil in 2000. Not bad for a family one generation off of farming.

Giorgio died in 1999, and today the estate, museums, restored historic farms and other ventures are run by his two daughters Chiara (CEO, degrees in Agriculture and Viticulture, Councillor of Federvini, and of Unione Italiana Vini, an Academic of Accademia della Vite e del Vino, an Auxiliary Academic of Accademia dei Georgofili of Florence and a member of the Board of Fondazione Perugia Musica Classica), Teresa (Marketing Director, degree in Enology, founder of Le Donne del Vino, first woman to be admitted to the Académie International du Vin in Geneva), and the mother Maria Grazia (degrees in Literature and Art History, Director of the Museo del Vino, recipient of Cavaliere di Gran Croce dell’Ordine al merito della Repubblica Italiana, Italy’s highest civilian award).

Chiara, Maria-Grazia & Teresa

Under the guidance of these three formidable women and with the assistance of Teresa’s son Francesco and daughter Gemma, Lungarotti continues to be the standard-bearer of quality and innovation in central Italy.

The family owns two estates comprising of some 600 acres of vineyard in Torgiano and Montefalco. Both estates are at the forefront of sustainable viticultore, with the Montefalco estate having fully converted to organic viticulture.

The wines

Within the Torgiano estate lies a particular parcel- Il Pometo (the apple orchard), which produces lighter, fresh wines generally labelled as pure varietals. We carry two wines from this superb property:

Il Pometo Grechetto: 100% Grechetto grown on clay-rich soils of moderate fertility. Free run juice from a very gentle press, vinified in stainless after a short rest on the fine lees. Bright and floral with mineral notes, a core of exotic fruit and a touch of almond in the finish.

Il Pometo Vermentino: 100% Vermentino grown on clay-rich soils of moderate fertility. Cold macerated, then produced from the free run juice in stainless. Light resting on the fine lees before bottling. Expressive and fruit-driven with notes of melon, pear and peach. Il Pometo Sangiovese: 100% Sangiovese

Il Pometo Sangiovese: 100% Sangiovse from the valley floor near the Upper Tiber. Sandy clay/limestones which provide lift and elegance. The result- a super juicy, silky wine of low tannin and moderate acidity- totally classic Tuesday pizza wine!

“In 1982, Pope John-Paul II visited the St. Francis’ hometown of Asissi and was gifted a traditional cask of Vin Santo... from Lungarotti.”

Rubesco Riserva Vigna Monticchio: This is the estate’s flagship wine, from their finest vineyard in Torgiano, the Vigna Monticchio, a 37-acre site t 985ft elevation. Older-vine Sangiovese, with a selected harvest of about 30% of the vineyard going into the Riserva. Interlayered sand and clay soils of lacustrine origin. Approximately 30 days maceration with the skins followed by moderate-temperature fermentation in stainless, then 12 months in 1500-gallon fine-grained oak tonneaux. 3 years bottle ageing before release. Structured and grippy with fine-grained tanins and dark pure fruit. Produced only in select vintages and renowned as one of Italy’s greatest red wines. Ageing potential: 15-35 years.

San Giorgio: This “Super Umbrian” analogue to a Super Tuscan is a 50/50 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. The Sangiovese is grown in the Vigna Monticchio, while the Cabernet comes from a plot of gravelly soil over a high-drainage tufa subsoil providing deep, concentrated fruit. Vinified in stainless followed by 12 months in new Barrique in the classic Super… style. Named San Giorgio in honor of Giorgio Lungarotti who was the first to plant Cabernet in Umbria. Big wine. As in, “pappardelli with wild boar ragu” big…

Lungarotti Brut NV Rose: A superb Method Champenoise blend of Sangiovese and Pinot Grigio. Long slow fermentation over 18 months, followed by remuage and dosage to an extra-brut level of 5g/l sweetness. Beautiful deep onionskin color. On the nose the first notes have hints of bread crust, wisteria and rose, followed by a delicate scent of hazelnut. Shows a vibrant freshness with almond notes, with delicate and long-lasting mousse. As the wine opens up a bit it shows a nice minerality. Great food rose!

Lungarotti’s hometown of Torgiano. Photo credit

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