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VALPOLICELLA AND ITS WINES
The Valpolicella DOC is located in the Verona Province in the eastern edge of the Veneto Region of northeast Italy.
This area of rolling hills on limestone and lime-marl soils, known as the “pearl of Verona” takes its name from Vallis Pulicellae - the valley of river deposits.
Valpolicella has been known for wine production since the the early Greek settlement of the area, and by the Roman era it was famed for its great reds and whites. The late-Roman author Cassiodorus, writing about 550 AD, notes that the region’s sweet wines were favorites of the royal court of the Ostrogothic Kingdom, whose capital was the nearby Imperial capital of Ravenna.
From the 8th Century to the 19th Century, the region was controlled by the Republic of Venice (officially The Most Serene Republic of Venice, La Repubblica Serenissima) and the wines were exported widely. Periodic blockades by the Turks limited imports and encouraged further development of the region’s vineyard area and winemaking.
In 1968, Valpolicella was granted Denominazione di Origine Controlatta (DOC) status, but the area was broadened from the core area of the Lissini Hills to include large flatlands stretching into the Po and lower Adige valleys. This brought about overproduction and a general decline in quality, and subsequently of the reputation of Valpolicella wines (here’s lookin at you, Bolla).
The establishment of the Valpolicella Classica zone on the original hillsides and subsequent creation of the Recioto della Valpolicella and Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG appellations (both in 2010) has done much to restore Valpolicella’s wines to their 2,500 year history of greatness.
“[Monte Olmi Amarone is] especially characterized by a wealth of mentholated terpens that confer freshness and lift to what would otherwise be a very big wine, but that has a vibrant side thanks to its minty, spicy and citrus nuances. ”
Tedeschi
The Tedeschi name is synonymous with fine Valpolicella, Ripasso wines and Amarone. Dating to 1630, the family’s four centuries of winemaking history have made the Tedeschi Winery an enological reference point for the Valpolicella territory in Italy and in the world. As pioneers of cru wines in the region, they have embraced innovation while maintaining fidelity to their roots, creating wines that exalt and authentically express the terroir of Valpolicella. Each bottle produced by family tells a story that combines aromatic freshness, character, complexity, and elegance. These are wines that speak to the nuances of terroir like few others.
Antoinetta, Riccardo & Sabrina Tedeschi
Today, the winery is headed by Lorenzo Tedeschi and managed by his three children - Antonietta (domestic markets), Sabrina (international markets), and Riccardo (winemaker), who proudly carry on the family tradition.
Sabrina is also the past President of Famiglie Storiche, an organization of important growers in the Valpolicella region dedicated to preserving the best of Valpolicella’s ancient traditions while focussing on innovation and quality improvement. Other families in the group include Allegini, Bertani, Masi, Tommasi and Zenato.
“Location has always been fundamental to Tedeschi, enabling the family to obtain wines of great structure and character. ”
The modern DOC is divided into 3 primary zones- the Classica zone to the west including the hillsides of the Fumane, Marano and Negrar valleys, the central Valpentana zone, and the eastern section around the Valle de Mezzane and Val d’Illasi known as Valpolicella Orientale.
Vineyard Sites
Tedeschi owns individual vineyards dotted about the Valpolicella Classica zone, including their superb Monte Olmi vineyard (pictured above), a southwest-facing slope of terraced vines just outside the village of San Pietro in Cariano. Covering a bit over 3.5 acres of clay/calcareous soil at elevations of 480 - 645 ft, this site produces deep, concentrated wines.
They also own a second estate- the Tenuta Maternigo, which is in the far east of the Valpolicella DOC (Valpolicella Orientale), just inside the denominazione border adjacent to the village of Mezzane di Sotto. This large (about 50-acre) estate includes nine different vineyard sites yielding quite different wines. Generally, the soils are white and pink calcareous marl on top of Cretaceous-era limestones, with elevations of 965 to 1585 ft elevation.
The family owns a total across all zones of about 245 acres, of which around 120 are under vine with the rest in pasture and woodland. Total production across their 13 different wines (including five different Amarones) is about 41,500 cases annually.
Map courtesy Maggie Nelson, Decanter Magazine
“Some of the vineyards are located in the classic area, like the renowned Monte Olmi vineyard and the Fabriseria vineyard, from which two great crus of Valpolicella and Amarone are obtained. The Maternigo estate, which comprises 33 hectares of vineyards surrounded by thick woodland in the eastern valley of Valpolicella, was specifically chosen for the uniqueness of the land and for its position. ”
The Wines
Soave Classica “Capitel Tenda” - 100% Garganega, late harvested from vineyards located in the hills of the Classica zone of Soave. Alcoholic fermentation, then ageing in stainless steel for several months and then for a further 4 months in the bottle. Elegant and velvety, fruity with marked almond notes. Ideal pairing for appetizers, fish dishes, white meats as well as soft and fresh cheeses.
Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore “Capitel San Rocco” - From fruit selected from the Marne Bianche vineyard on the Maternigo Estate. 35% each Corvina & Corvinone, 20% Rondinella and 10% mixed heritage varieties. Partly apassimento on the lees of Amarone and Recioto. Fermented in stainless for temperature control, then aged in Slavonian oak barrels for approximately 15 months followed by a further 6 months in the bottle. Elegant and complex, very much in the “house style.” Round but dry- pair with red meat dishes, game, and aged cheeses. 14$% ABV and fermented to dry at 1.5g/l residual sugar.
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico “Marne 180” - Named for the marl-based soils and expansive southern exposure of its vineyard sources, this wine is produced with grapes that come from various vineyards from the hills of Valpolicella, composed of 35% each Corvina and Corvinone, 20% Rondinella, and 10% other heritage varieties. Grapes are dried for approximately 4 months in a controlled environment. Fermented in stainless for temperature control, then is aged in barrels of Slavonian oak for 3 years and refined in bottle for at least 6 additional months. Characterized by aromatic freshness with great structure and balance as well as good acidity, making it a great match for food pairings such as moderately spiced foods, red meat and game, as well as aged cheeses. 16.5% ABV, 3% residual sugar.
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico “Ansari” - Named for the three Tedeschi siblings Antonietta, Sabrina & Riccardo, this wine is a synergy between traditional styles and a modernist twist. Sourced at the Materningo estate in the Orientale zone. Corvinone 40%, Corvina 35%, Rondinella 20%, Oseleta 5%. The grapes are dried for approximately 4 months then fermented. Fermented in stainless for temperature control, wine is then aged in barrels of Slavonian oak for 3 years and then bottle-aged for 6 additional months. Elegant and austere with strong balsamic notes. Classic in style, and very long-lasting. It is perfect for food pairings such as moderately spiced foods, red meat and game as well as aged cheeses. 16.5% ABV, 3.5% residual sugar.
Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva “Capitel Monte Olmi” - This wine is the flag-bearer for the Tedeschi family and has been vinified as a single Cru since 1964. 30% each Corvina, Corvinone, and Rondinella, and 10% mixed heritage varieties. The grapes are dried for 4 months prior to fermmentation, fermented in stainless for temperature control. After fermentation, the wine is aged for 4 years in barrels made from Slavonian oak followed by bottle-aging for an additional 12 months. The wine has delicate fruit that is enhanced with aging and has spiked notes of balsamic. The wine has great structure and complexity and is very elegant and long lived. It should be paired with red meat roasts and game, braised meats, and well-aged cheeses. 17% ABV with about 6g/l residual sugar.
The Major Valpolicella Grapes
Corvina: AKA Corvina Veronese. A primary grape for Valpolicella. Its most commonly cited characteristic is its sour cherry flavor, as well as its lack of color and tannin – Corvina wines tend to be bright red and lighter in structure unless handled via appassimento.
Corvinone: Another main constituent for Valpolicella (including Recioto and Amarone), which, as of 2010, must be mininum 45% and maximum 95% of these two grapes, in any proportion. Both Corvinone and Corvina are thick-skinned and lend themselves to the apassimento process.
Molinara: a light-bodied Italian red grape that is used as a minor blending partner in Valpolicella and Bardolino. On its own, Molinara is fairly nondescript and as a consequence rarely appears as a varietal wine. It is much more commonly used to add its naturally high acidity to other red wines, or to lighten up a particularly rich blend. As of 2010, it is no longer required as a constituent variety in Valpolicella wines.
Rondinella: an Italian red-wine grape variety that most commonly appears in Valpolicella and Bardolino blends. A prolific and high-yield grape, Rondinella is hardly ever produced as a varietal wine. Rather, it is used to add herbal flavors to Corvina-based wines and to flesh out the blend.
Others allowed in the DOC: Barbera, Bigolona, Corbina, Croatina, Dindarella, Forselina, Marzemina, Negrara, Oseleta, Rossignola, Sangiovese, Turchetta, and international varieties Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot.
Hillside vineyards in the Valpolicella Classico zone.
“[O]ur Amarone Maternigo is made with grapes from the Barila vineyard, planted at about 310 meters above sea level and facing south. The marly-calcareous soil there is grey-yellow, and offers great drainage. It is also a very well-ventilated site, with noteworthy diurnal temperature variations and delivers interesting phenol concentrations and excellent aromatic complexity in the grapes. Given also that it is a site of extremely low vigour, the resulting wine is very concentrated. The aromas are mainly due to the high norisoprenoid concentrations that really bring to the fore the red fruits mostly (but not only) of Corvinone, that here is about 40% of the blend. There’s also hints of sweet spices, but it’s really the fruit that dominates. In other words, Maternigo is an area that delivers freshness and aromatic complexity. We only make this wine in the better vintages.
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A Glossary for Valpolicella Wines
Appassimento: a process of drying the grapes into raisins in order to concentrate sugars and flavor compounds. Typically by spreading them on straw or bamboo mats, or by hanging the clusters in a warm dry loft. This process has been used in the Veneto since its introduction by the ancient Greeks.
Passito: a wine made by the appassimento process.
Ripasso: a wine made by macerating a conventional Valpolicella wine with the concentrated lees from an Appassimento wine, giving it greater concentration body and flavor than a conventional Valpolicella but at lower cost and intensity than a Recioto or Amarone.
Recioto della Valpolicella: a Valpolicella wine made by the Appassimento process, typically left with a touch (DOCG minimum of 45g/l) of residual sweetness. They typically present on the palate as dry to off-dry, with intense concentration. DOCG regulations require: min 12% ABV.
Amarone della Valpolicella: a Valpolicella wine made by the Appassimento process, fermented all the way to fully dry. Intense with typically high alcohol. DOCG regulations require: min 14% ABV, min 2 years ageing after harvest (4 years for Riserva).
“Not to be confused with Tedeschi Family Winery of Napa (cadet branch of the family that emigrated from Italy to Providence RI and then to Calistoga in 1919, or Tedeschi Winery Maui (pineapple (yup) wines from the same branch’s sojourn in Hawaii in the later 20th Century).”
Winter in the Colli Lissini