Italy > Lombardy > Lugana > Seiterre (Tenuta Fantona)
lugana
With borders that span the Veneto and Lombardy regions, Lugana’s growing zone encompasses five tiny villages: Peschiera del Garda in the Veneto region, and Desenzano, Sirmione, Pozzolengo and Lonato in Lombardy.
Originally planted under the Roman Empire, the region largely reverted to forest during the Middle ages, finally being cleared again for agriculture in the 15th and 16th centuries. By 1595, the region’s white wines were of sufficient stature to be lauded in Andrea Bacci’s book, De Naturali Vinorum Historia (On the Natural History of Wines).
One of the main factors behind Lugana’s success is its mild microclimate, unusual for northern Italy. This is due to the proximity of the beautiful Lake Garda just to the north, which moderates the daily temperature swings, provides cooling breezes in the summer and a massive heat reservoir in the shoulder seasons.
The DOCG consists of some 5400 acres of vineyards, sited on glacial moraine deposits consisting of gravel, sand and clay derived from the limestones of the Alps to the north. Elevation is about 300ft above sea level.
The DOC (now DOCG) allows up to 10% of “other” white varieties in the wine, but many producers prefer to work with 100% Turbiana, the local white grape (a relative of Verdicchio) gives the DOC its unique character. Wines may be made in 5 styles- “regular” Lugana (90% of the total production of the DOCG), Superiore (richer, riper), Reserva (additional barrel and bottle age), Late Harvest, and Spumante.
Seiterre
Seiterre dates back to about 1810 and paterfamilias Francesco Rizzi, farmer in the Alto Adige. His son Pietro was followed by his grandson Giovannibatista, who recognized the vineyard potential of their land and replaced cereal crops with vines. The winery established in 1877 by Giovannibatista was then taken over after World War II by his three sons, Remo, Renzo and Rino. Remo expanded the family’s holdings into Lombardy and Veneto, and was succeeded by his two sons, Luigino (“Gigi”) and Claudio. Today, Seiterre is a family firm that now owns a total of six superb wine estates (Seiterre- six lands) throughout northern Italy. Gigi’s daughter Anna, along with her husband Carloalberto manage the 6th generation of the family, their rembunctious Alessandro, as well as the family holdings, including the Tenuta Fantona in San Martino della Battaglia, just south of the southern end of Lake Garda, a large post-glacial lake hemmed into its Alpine valley by massive moraine deposits.
San Martino della Battaglia locator map, courtesy Google
The 196 acres of vineyards of Tenuta Fantona surround the famous Torre de San Martino, an ossuary and monument commemorating two notable battles between the Austrians and the Piedmontese armies during the Italian Risorgimento in the 1860’s.
The Wine
Seiterre’s Lugana is made from 100% Turbiana. Harvested early in the morning hours and then gently pressed, then vinified in stainless followed by 1-2 months ageing on the lees to impart character. Crisp and mineral-driven with underripe white fruit flavors of peach and nectarine.