Italy > Veneto > Custoza > SeiTerre Tenuta San Leone

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Custoza

Custoza is a tiny little postage-stamp of a DOC located just west of the ancient Roman city of Verona (yup, Shakespeare’s Verona) and just east of Lake Garda. With only 3600 acres of vineyards set into an amphitheater formed by a set of glacial moraines, Custoza makes elegant, scented whites from a variety of grapes.

Viticulture here dates to the neolithic “stilt house” period, but the region became a winemaking center under Rome and then throughout the Middle Ages. The modern DOC dates to 1971, and includes both a base level 98% of produciton) and a Superiore level (2%). Annual production within the DOC (including sparkling and dessert versions) is approximately 13,000,000 bottles.

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The same property extends into the Bardolino DOC and they also produce a Bardolino Chiaretto from the classic trio of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. A few hours maceration, quick, low-temperature fermentation and about a month resting in the bottle to produce a fresh, lively rose that takes you back to a cafe in the Piazza San Marco!

Seiterre

Founded in 1877 by Gian Batista Rizzi, Seiterre is a family firm that now owns a total of nine superb wine estates throughout northern Italy. Today, 4th-generation brothers Luigino and Claudo Rizzi manage these holdings, including the Tenuta San Leone in Salionze, on the banks of the Mincio River which drains the southern end of Lake Garda, a massive post-glacial lake hemmed into its Alpine valley by massive moraine deposits.

Salionze locator map, couresy NASA/Goddard SFC

Salionze locator map, couresy NASA/Goddard SFC

Current DOC regulations allow 9 varieties in Custoza Bianco, including Garganega, Bianca Fernanda (a local Cortese clone), Trebbiano, Friulano, Malvasia, Riesling Italico, Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Manzoni Bianco. Garganega, Cortese, Friulano and Trebbiano are however the favored varieties.

The WineS

SeiTerre’s Custoza Bianco is a blend of Garganega, Trebbiano, Cortese and Friulano. Harvested in the early morning to capture better acidity, the wine is vinified at low temperature in stainless steel before racking off the lees and bottling. Bright and fresh with notes of underripe peach and elderflower… a great example of the style and a perfect pairing with a shrimp and spring vegetable risotto.

Their red blend, a Rosso Veronese of Corvina, Molinara and Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the same glacial moraine deposits (limestone/clay mix) as the other wines. The fruit is harvested 10-15 days after the usual start of harvest to ensure great depth and ripeness. Maceration with the skins for some 14 days, then vinification in stainless steel to maintain freshness. Ripe and succulent with notes of dried cherry and plum. Pair with a meat or vegetable risotto, or with roast or grilled red meats.