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galicia, home of albarino

Galicia, the autonomous province of Spain situated directly north of Portugal, is a mountainous district known for its pilgrimage routes, rugged coastline, pirate coves, and of course its wines, most famously of Albarino.

The region was an important fishing ground during Roman and Medieval times, and one coastal district known as the Val de Salnes (from the Latin Territorium Salinense) was known for its salt flats providing salt for preserving the local catch for export.

Rais Baixas (map credit)

During the High Middle Ages’ 12th Century, Cistercian monks began to cultivate Albarino in the region. The grape is well suited to the climate and the granitic soils of the zone, and achieves perfect ripeness in the cool Atlantic breezes that blow in from the West.

Albarino at full ripeness

After establishment of the DO in 1988, five subregions were recognized, the most important of which is the Val do Salnes, which produces by itself 66% of the DO’s Albarino.

The Val do Salnes and Rio Umia, courtesy Noah Chichester

For more in the Rias Baixas…

Golden Bacchus Award- World’s Best White Wine
— Intervin International Wine Competition, 1990

Bodegas chaves

A third-generation family winery founded in 1955, Chaves was at the forefront of gaining recognition for the wines of Rias Baixas and of Albarino. Chaves was the second winery to be granted DO recognition for its wines after establishment of the DO in 1988.

Tino Chaves, grandson of founder Jose Chaves, in the family vineyards.

Located in the Val do Salnes, on a hilltop overlooking the Umia River and the Atlantic, their vineyards are located on loose granitic soils at about 330ft elevation, exposed to full sun and constant Atlantic breezes. This allows Chaves to avoid chemical treatments. Vineyards are naturally fertilized with the solids left after winemaking. Pesticides and herbicides are not used.

Soils in the Val do Salnes, courtesy Noah Chichester

Their Cinco Islas Albarino, named for the five isles that for centuries have guided mariners into the harbor at the mouth of the Umia River, is a lush and complex wine with mineral notes, pronounced salinity, herbal overtones and a long, powerful finish. A great example of what Albarino can be.